Cruising on the Bay

Despite the name of this blog, Freedom seems to spend more time off the Chesapeake Bay than she does on it. My wish for this summer was for an extended shore leave and some weekend cruising close to home.  Memorial Day weekend got us off to a good start.  We were asked to serve as the Committee Boat for the Corinthian Yacht Club of Philadelphia's Spring Cruise and we readily agreed. It a great opportunity for us to reconnect with fellow club members, spend some time on the Bay before it got too hot, and for the Cap'n to race his S2, Crazy Horse. 

But wait a minute: if Freedom was to be the Race Committee boat, responsible for acting as starting line and finish line -- typically in two different places -- and the Capn' was going to be racing, who was going to seer Freedom?  Yes, it was time for me to take off my Admiral's cap and step up to the role of Captain!

The winds were high throughout most of the weekend, forcing the Friday Fun race to be completed below decks using charts and conversation.  Saturday dawned calm and sunny and the early birds began race preparation. Mother Nature had other plans and by 8AM the winds picked up and the waves were white capped. Much to the dismay of some crew members, the days race was on. Some boats opted not to risk injury to crew or rigging and opted out (including Crazy Horse).  Those that pressed on faced an athletic day as they raced from Baltimore Light to the Magothy River. As you can see from the anemometer, it was not a day for the faint of heart:

That is 39kts of wind!

The Race Committee stared down the breezy conditions to  keep everyone informed and at the starting line on time raising and lowering flags, sounding the air horn,

firing the gun,

all the while maintaining color coordination...

We were all rewarded with a peaceful anchorage and evening, where we visited among the fleet and shared stories and laughs over dinner.

Sunday was breezy but better, bringing the full fleet to the race course. The Cap'n steered the boat to the starting line, then jumped on the Horse.  Once again anchored off of Baltimore Light we had some picture perfect starts:

Not sure if I would enjoy living in a Lighthouse ......

That's Reef Points -- formerly known as Pyewacket. A beauty!

Perfect Start for Class B

The strength of the winds told us the boats would be nearing the finish line sooner than usual, -- it was time for me to take the helm and head north to the Patapsco. Somehow I managed to avoid barges, car carriers 7 stories high:

holiday weekend boat traffic and buoys to make it safely to the finish line. Phew!!

The racers finished in rapid succession against the backdrop of the Baltimore industrial waterfront and the Key Bridge. 

The Commodore's yacht -- formerly known as Freedom -- nearing the finish line

Bluejacket - The overall winner!

Everyone was anxious to get to shore for a long hot shower and a chance to talk over the day's activities and before long we were all docked at the Maryland Yacht Club for a lobster dinner and awards ceremony.  Crazy Horse earned First Place for Sunday's Class B race! Go Horse Go!!

Where Does the Time Go!?! April-May

I now, I have been neglecting the blog of late. Ever since my Shore Leave began in mid April I have been caught up in my suburban life and lost focus on the boat life. Not Freedom has been sitting idle either.

So, let's back track a bit as I get you up to date on our travels .... (you might want to grab a beverage, this is a long post, with only one photo at the end --  when the Admiral goes on Shore Leave so does the Staff Photographer)

After I hopped off in Ft. Myers  the Capn's sister and brother in law joined him for a few days on Florida's west coast before heading back across Lake Okeechobee.  Avid bird watcher's, Robin and Alan recorded many notable sightings, but they all agreed that the warblings heard at the Roland Martin Marina Karaoke Night were not Mother Nature made!

Once back in Suart, another crew change was made. Coming aboard were daughter Adrienne (did you know her name means "Woman of the Sea"?), her friend Peter, Cap'n Pete, and Al&Donna. A great crew for the trip up the coast. After a few days on the Intracoastal (ICW) Freedom headed outside for a 36 run from Fernandina to , taking advantage of the good weather  and (mostly) experienced crew.

By the time Freedom was back on the Chesapeake Bay she was down to the Cap'n, with Adrienne and (now experienced) Peter as crew.  Another winter south safely completed.   A good cleaning and  several loads of laundry later we ready to make plans for Spring and Summer on the Bay.

Just a few days after arriving, Georgetown, Maryland marked the 200th anniversary of the Burning of Georgetown. We took that opportunity to invite the "River People" to join us on the bow for the spectacular Fireworks display followed by dessert. It was a great way to reconnect with friends and properly kick off the season.  Even the Schooner Sultana showed up for the celebration:

Also joining us that night were our dogs Hamilton and Miles. I am fully engaged in training them to be comfortable and well mannered boat dogs. When we head south in the fall they will be along as crew, as our "in house dog watchers" (aka, the k'dults) will no longer be in house. Fortunately the fireworks did not disturb them, but woe to the guest who wanted to sit on "their spot" on the settee. Something to work on...

For now, I will work on my next post about Memorial Day weekend... Stay tuned

Random Photos from Freedom

We hadn't fueled up since last summer -- so the tanks were getting empty. When I snapped this shot the port side tank was just about full -- good thing because Freedom was heeling over a bit too much for my taste.

We watched this helicopter fly film a speed boat in the waters surrounding Cabbage Key for several hours. Police Action? Major Motion Picture? Commercial? Actually, a TV Show for the Discovery Channel, set to be aired May 4th.

Dinner before Karaoke night at Burnt Store Marina, FL with friends A2 and Amy.
No, we did not sing

River otters checking out a kayaker/Kayakist? at Cabbage Key dock.
They were swimming about and climbing aboard any boat with easy access.

The Cap'n, Christine and Andy under the banyans on Boca Grande, FL

Sinking Boat at the St. Petersburg Pier. It attracted quite a crowd, before the owners returned, including the police who hooked up this bilge pump. Later we watched as it was towed to the ramp and sat draining for about two hours!

The Dancing Ladies of the St. Petersburg Saturday Market. The one in the patchwork dress is there every week, swaying to the tunes, whether she has a partner or not.

View from inside a lock along the Okeechobee Waterway

Bananas by the pool at the Edison-Ford Estates, Ft. Myers, FL
Check out the beautiful flower hanging from the fruit.

Jim handling the lock lines.

Psychedelic sunset over St. Pete Beach, FL

Unexpected Guests

Our schedule continued to change after my last post -- never did make it to Sarasota, opting instead to press  on to St. Pete Beach where we rode out the bad weather for 3 nights. Then it was on to St. Petersburg, sans friend Jim, but in anticipation of spending a week with Andy and Christine.

It was great to be back in St. Pete. The weather was ideal for walking along the pier, riding bikes, taking a dinghy ride through the harbor and having dinner at the end of Albert Whitted Airport runway. From there we headed south again, and back to Cabbage Key where we took the dink  ashore to check out the Cabbage Key Inn and their famed cheeseburgers. The story goes that their take on the all American classic sandwich inspired Jimmy Buffet to write "Cheeseburger in Paradise." We intended to try it last year, but we arrived for dinner, and burgers are only served at lunch!   It was worth the wait. More on that soon over at the food blog, MarthasGalley.blogspot.com.

A day or to later, enroute to Sanibel Island on a gorgeous day with a classic 'blue sky breeze'  we had some surprise visitors. Christine and I were chatting in the salon, when I overheard the Cap'n responding to a call on the radio

Radio Voice: "How many passengers do you have on your vessel Cap'n?" (that's a weird question, I thought)
Cap'n: "Three, plus myself."
R.V." Please ask your crew to gather in the cockpit, then slow your boat and maintain that speed. We are going to board you" 
Me: "Huh? Who? What's going on?" I called out as I jumped up to look out the window

There on our port side was a large black inflatable boat, with three Lee County Sheriff's Dept. agents dressed in full camo gear complete with  flak jackets. Guns at their hips.
By now, Andy was in the cockpit, readying a line, but the officers simply jumped aboard once our speeds were in sync -- I think they had done it before.

While one officer engaged Christine and I in conversation in the cockpit, the second joined the Cap'n and Andy in the pilot house. First order of business, I suppose, was to hear us speak, and then to assess our demeanor. Before long, the Cap'n asked me to locate our boat documentation. The officer's eyes followed me as I descended the steps to retrieve the paperwork.

Next we were asked to show our safety equipment: radio, flares, ditch bags (supplies in case we have to abandon ship). When, at the Cap'ns direction Andy pulled out the Gumby Suits ( to be worn in case we have to abandon ship in cold waters) the officer realized we were set for most anything and stopped asking questions. After reviewing our ID's, they motioned to their mothership and in a flash, they were gone.

"What was that all about?" I wondered out loud. The officer in the cockpit had revealed he is typically on Gangs and Drugs duty. Our dinghy can outrun Freedom, so I hardly think they thought we were running something. But you never know, I suppose.
"Pretty Girl stop," was the Cap'ns theory -- the officers just wanted to see if Freedom is as good lookin' on the inside as she is on the outside. Who could blame them?

No matter what the reason, it added more than just a bit of excitement to our week.

Lee County Sheriff's Dept. motoring away from Freedom after a boarding

The Unpredictability of Cruising

Remember my last post?  Plans for Sanibel?  Scratch that. Boca Grande? Nah. Useppa/ Cabbage Key? Anchored there now -- but just a port in the oncoming storm. A front is heading in, precipitating a change in plans.

Holding tank issues kept us in Ft. Myers for two nights -- allowing for some long walks and a visit to the Edison-Ford Estates -- and a better smell down below!!

Tomorrow morning we head to Sarasota where we will ride out the front at Marina Jack for 2-3 nights until we head north to St. Petersburg. Crewmate Jim has taken the disappointment of not stopping at Boca Grande well.  Our traveling companions, Jeff, Ellen, and Bunker aboard Trinity are providing companionship, technical assistance and a great view (they are our sister ship -- and we can't get over how good looking they are!)

Don't feel bad for us -- the weather is ideal: bright blue skies, clear sunlight, dolphins jumping alongside.  We just need to be as flexible as the  sea life as we move up the coast to greet Andy and Christine.

Meanwhile, Back on Freedom

While we were traveling, Freedom remained snug in her slip in Stuart, Florida. She used her time alone for a little cosmetic surgery:  new varnish to her handrails, new canvas covers to protect the varnish from the hot sun, new toast colored awnings and dinghy cover, and snappy new red and toast striped cushions.  She was looking fine upon our return!

Now it is time to throw off the lines and do some exploring.  Tomorrow we will head west across the Okeechobee Waterway to Florida's west coast. Cruising in tandem with our sister ship Trinity, we will first head north to St. Pete, with stops planned for Ft.Myers, Sanibel Island, Useppa,  & Boca Grande along the way.

I am anxious to hear the roar of the engine, see some alligators  and get back into the rhythm of the Waterway.

Freedom Way Way Off the Bay: Vietnam

When I think of our trip to Asia I think in terms of colors: the ubiquitous purple of Thailand, the brown milky waters of Cambodia, the grey industrial feel of north Vietnam, the pink peach blossoms decorating our hotel in central Vietnam, and the ubiquitous and exuberant yellow gold of the Kumquat Tree signifying Prosperity for the New Year in Saigon.

New Year's preparations were in full force when we arrived in Hanoi, and we quickly learned to say Chuc Mong Nam Moi (Happy New Year!) Everywhere you looked Pink Peach Blossom branches, sprang from vases and decorated banners. Kumquat trees, in varying sizes, were transported from shop to home on the backs of motorbikes. Tall Yellow Mums were lined up as far as the eye could see at roadside flower stands.

Photo taken in Hue, under the watchful eye of the Citadel. The vendors would sleep overnight in the tents. 

Markets were full of New Year gifts and traditions. It is customary to burn "money" and paper trinkets representing goals or wishes in anticipation of the new year. For example, if you would like to a new car, you might burn a paper Mercedes; if you need or hope for a new phone, the markets were full of paper iPhones; but mostly there were stacks and stacks of paper money, ready to be burned with the hope of later becoming a reality.

Money to burn

Wishing for a new Cell Phone and eyeglasses

With the biggest holiday of the year approaching, Hanoi was a swirl of people, motorbikes, and anticipation. It is a crowded, noisy city of narrow streets, motorbikes,beeping horns, and sidewalk restaurants. Our hotel was adjacent to the Guild District where traditionally each of 37 streets feature one craft or profession and its wares. We took a tuk tuk ride through this district -- a fascinating, colorful, up close and personal, and at time harrowing, experience! While trying to avoid collisions with pedestrians, tour buses, & motorbikes, my driver would tap my shoulder, point his finger and say "Madam", making sure I did not miss any highlights.

Looking a little nervous about a Tuk Tuk ride through the crazy streets of Hanoi

A trip to Hanoi would not be complete without visiting the Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum: A grand structure overlooking Ba Dinh Square. Reportedly, Ho Chi Minh preferred a simpler resting place, but that wish was denied. Strict guards kept us moving up the path to the mausoleum  into the building. When I paused to snap a photo it was made quite clear to me, without words,  that this was not to be tolerated. A raised walkway led us around the glass enclosed body of the former leader in a chilly and dimly lit room. Again, no stopping was allowed, and before you knew it we were back outside. The mausoleum is closed for 6 weeks every year for "cleaning." We suspect it is for another layer of wax and restoration.




We also visited the Hanoi Hilton, -- officially named Maison Central and originally used by the the French to incarcerate Vietnamese --  it gained notoriety, and its nickname, during the Vietnam War when US Prisoners of War were held captive there. As an aside, in Vietnam the Vietnam War is known as the American War -- all a matter of perspective.
In an effort to look towards the hopeful future and not to a difficult past, the area of Maison Central where the US soldiers were held has been torn down. Today, a multi-purpose highrise stands in its place. Visitors tour cells from the days of French rule in addition to a museum of pictures and artifacts from the Vietnam/American War. The photographs show the US soldiers playing basketball, cooking Thanksgiving dinner and John McCain receiving medical care: one of the most blatant displays of propaganda we saw throughout the country.

I really enjoyed a stop at the 54 Traditions Gallery where we received a personal tour from owner and US ex-pat Mark S. Rapoport. The gallery exhibits and sells culturall objects of the 53 Vietnamese ethnic groups, collected by Dr. Rapoport, his wife Jane Hughes and co-owner Nguyen Thi Nhung. www.54traditions.com.vn

When exiting the hotel on our last morning in Hanoi we heard patriotic songs and speeches emanating from loud speakers throughout the city. When questioned our guide said it was songs and speeches about the greatness of Vietnam.  And he said, "Propaganda."  From Hanoi we headed east to Halong Bay and an overnight cruise aboard a 25 passenger ship. The drive was billed to be three hours, but between the bumpy roads, near misses with passing tricks and buses, and stops to view Vietnamese culture (aka, tourist traps) it seemed much longer. The ride did afford us a chance to view the countryside, endless rice paddies and rural villages. We wondered if all that effort was worth an overnight boat trip considering we had just spent 10 sailing in Thailand. Upon reflection, I would say Yes! The dining room was elegant:

Our rooms were spacious and comfortable (complete with spa tubs):

We relaxed on the deck, toured a cave, and took a hands on class in Spring Roll making. It was a great diversion.



Then it was on to Central Vietnam, and the charming town of Hoi An. Our guide delighted in learning that his father had been in the same town as Al during the war. Life was more "open" in Hoi An. Our guide spoke freely about propaganda, the post war re-education programs, his family's need to star from scratch after the war, and his optimistic hope for social and political change in Vietnam. 70% of the Vietnamese population is under the age of 30. Yes, 70%! As in so many developing countries, the internet has brought the world to Vietnam's doorstep, and as young people see the freedoms and opportunities in other countries, our guide is certain they will begin to demand that for themselves in Vietnam.

Set beside the South China Sea, Hoi An was a prosperous seaport from the 16th to 18th centuries. It is now a bustling town filled with tailors ready to make you a new garment of fine silk within 24 hours; beach-going tourists; restaurants,  a 400 year old covered bridge, and a lively market. I loved Hoi An.

While in central Vietnam we also visited the Unesco World Heritage site of My Son, capital of the Champa Kingdom. The area was victim to heavy shelling during the war and remnants of only 10 of the original 27 temples are in view. Deep crevices made the the shells are found alongside the ancient structures (7th-13th centuries).

From Hoi An we traveled by van across the Hai Van "Sea of Clouds " Pass to Hue. Mountain on one side, cliff on the other we marveled at the hairpin turns and blue sky scenery on one side of the summit, low clouds on the other,
Along the way we viewed a former leper colony set in a secluded cove.

The current residents are soon to be relocated by the government to make room for a luxury resort. When I exclaimed, "Don't the residents have a say in where they go?", our guide replied, "Oh, Mrs. Martha, you forget where you are." That day's reality check.

In Hue we visited the Ciadel, part fortress part palace as well as the ostentatious tomb of the Emperor Minh Mang. While his subjects suffered from poverty and starvation, he reveled in all things European and built himself a magnificent resting place on the mountainside.



We arrived in Saigon tired, and with Al a bit under the weather, the Cap'n, Donna and I mustered what energy we had left after 3 1/2 weeks of travel and set out to see the city.  Speaking of energy, Saigon has it: 9 million people, 5 million motorbikes, modern glass buildings, women in trendy clothing, wide boulevards, lively outdoor restaurants. in addition to visiting the very modern and opulent former Presidential Palace, we toured the Vietnam History Museum with its comprehensive exhibits on the development of Vietnamese culture and the struggles its people have faced throughout the centuries, and the War Museum which offered photographs and artifacts from the Vietnam/American War. Particularly difficult were the photos of citizens esp. children) with physical malformities caused by agent orange exposure.  It was an interesting view of the war from the other side.

The following morning our alarm rang at 3AM -- time to gather our things and drive through the dark but not completely quiet streets of Saigon to the catch  our flight home.  As I write this over a month after our return I must admit I am still processing all of the unique sites and experiences of our Asian Adventure, Way. Way Off the Bay.