Freedom Forever

Late last week the Cap'n looked out the window at the anchorage and said "There's Uncle Harry's old boat." "Oh yeah, I replied, That does look just like his boat.". "No, the Cap'n said, that is his boat."

Yes, the Cap'n knows his boats -- it has been said that he knows boats the way some know cars - boat builder, size, year built, he can call it all, even at a distance. Still, I needed to be convinced.

"And look, he said, it's still called Freedom."  I grabbed the binoculars. Sure enough, he was right. There she was, a 48' Jarvis Newman Lobster Boat.  Uncle Harry passed away several years ago, and had sold her boat at least a few years before that. The last time I recall seeing it was when our now 22 year old son was 7 and we were docked side by side in Rock Hall, MD. A the time we owned a green hulled 38" Jarvis Newman Lobster Boat named Freedom -- a mini-me to Uncle Harry's.

(Longtime readers of this blog will remember that 'Freedom' is a family boat named -- first established by his maternal grandfather,passed on to Harry and then from Harry to the Cap'n)

Excitedly, we tried to raise the current owners via VHF, but they had turned off their radio and were enjoying the sunset after a day of travel. The next morning, after a night of heavy rains, they tied up right in front of us. The Cap'n was thrilled to see how well she has been maintained and to hear where she has been over the many years since our Rock Hall meeting.

What are the chances: Two green hulled motor vessels,  docked in tandem, sharing a family name and a family link? It's a small world after all.

Two Freedoms

Uncle Harry's boat has the beautifully classic lines of the lobster hull

Dolphins Off the Dock

I've said it before, and I'll say it again: This has been a  long, cold and lately, rainy winter here in the low country. I know I get no sympathy from our friends up north who have been slogging through endless snow storms, school closings and power outages, but all the same, it is miserable here.

We have been cheered by the random days of flip flop weather and the recent appearance of large numbers of dolphins in the Ashley River. It was about three weeks ago that I first noticed them - groups of 3 -5 arching to the surface and gracefully diving beneath.  As Ham and I walk to shore before bed we can't see them, the color of their skin matching that of the waves, but we can hear them breaking the surface to breath,   "refilling the lung in one fifth of a second through an explosive blow which can reach velocities up to one hundred miles per hour."  (www.dolphinsworld.com)

At dawn, they spread ripples across the calm waters as they rhythmically breath and dive. From time to time, a pair will swim into the marina, weaving between and beneath the boats. I have learned that dolphins breathe purposefully, not automatically like humans do. Consequently, they can never fall completely asleep or else they will drown. One half of their brain always stays awake to continue sending the right messages to the lungs

We rarely see a solo dolphin. Some are in adult pairs, some are family pods of two adults and a child, and once I saw a group of 10. As we have traveled along the Intra-coastal we never see groups of more than 4, so such a large pod was exciting.

One sunny day I stepped into the cockpit and noticed a group of three playing just yards from the dock. One briefly disappeared and then emerged in a vertical leap between his two companions. It was a spectacular Sea World-worthy show.  I have always thought such behavior indicated a playfulness among dolphins -- simply a way to use up some energy on a beautiful day. Turns out it has a practical purpose -- such a leap from the water is called a "Spy Hop."  It allows a dolphin to get a good look at what is going on above the surface of the water.

No one is quite sure why we have so many resident dolphins in the river now: some have suggested it is mating season, although dolphins mate all year there is a spike in spring and fall , others think they are attracted by a higher number of fish in the area. All I know is that they have provided us with some beautiful sights and sounds as we wait patiently for spring.... 

Stuck in Colder Weather

Actually, we're stuck on the boat, at the dock, and the weather is much colder than we ever imagined.

Before I natter on about my cold feet and ever growing cabin fever,  let's go back to October, and listen in on a conversation between me and the Cap'n:

The Admiral: "I think we should stay here in Charleston for the winter. There's lots to do, and the restaurants are great. How cold do you think it gets?"

The Captain: "It  is nice here, but it won't be as warm as Florida."

The Admiral:" I know but really, how cold could it get?  And it will be a good jumping off point for The Loop.".

The Captain "That's true. You might not be able to wear your flip flops all the time."

The Admiral: "I know, but I have asked around and everyone says it doesn't really get that cold, not like up north.  There are palm trees here -- how cold could it get?"

Fast forward to January 28th:

Okay, that cold. Icicle cold. Ice and snow on the dock cold. The City of Charleston closed for a day cold. Bridges in and out of the city closed because of icy surfaces cold. Record low high temperature in Charleston cold. Colder than I had signed up for cold.

As I write we have not been off the boat in 48 hours -- minus the brief and treacherous walk up the dock taken by the Cap'n and Hamilton yesterday afternoon  Soon after returning to the safety of  Freedom Ham willingly gave up his very high standard of  never "pottying" on board. Desperate times require desperate measures.

The marina was eerily quiet yesterday. A typical day has the marina staff riding by on their golf carts with some regularity, service technicians and crew hopping on and off occupied and unoccupied boats, local residents and office workers out for a stroll, and a steady trickle of boats pulling up for fuel or overnight dockage. Yesterday we saw a few smokers on the dock, an adventuresome ( or crazy) guy motor by on his small power boat, and the occasional car pass by on the road that hugs the harbor. We didn't even see any birds until late in the day.

We spent the day doing chores, looking out the windows, watching local tv reports of storm closings, and power outages, snapping photos, doing jumping jacks to keep warm ( or at least I did) and indulging in an American Pickers marathon. Even Hamilton, the dog who never met a weather system he didn't like, decided it was best just to snuggle up on the settee and nap.

From my galley widow I can see that life on shore is a bit closer to normal today: cars are driving at normal speeds on the road and near by bridge. There is still  little activity on the dock, but marina staff member rode out with today's paper. Warming temperatures and a light rain have washed away much of the ice and a family walk is planned for later this afternoon.

Maybe tomorrow will be better........

Here are a few photos of sights we never thought we would see, and quite honestly, hope never to see again:

Snow and ice on the bow

The Cap'n crawling across the icy cockpit to pull the potty rug closer to the door

You expect me to potty on that?  No way!

Ham hanging out in the snow

Snowy dock, looking south

Another view of the snow covered dock

The dock looking north. That's ice on the pilings

Meanwhile, Back on Freedom

While we were traveling, Freedom remained snug in her slip in Stuart, Florida. She used her time alone for a little cosmetic surgery:  new varnish to her handrails, new canvas covers to protect the varnish from the hot sun, new toast colored awnings and dinghy cover, and snappy new red and toast striped cushions.  She was looking fine upon our return!

Now it is time to throw off the lines and do some exploring.  Tomorrow we will head west across the Okeechobee Waterway to Florida's west coast. Cruising in tandem with our sister ship Trinity, we will first head north to St. Pete, with stops planned for Ft.Myers, Sanibel Island, Useppa,  & Boca Grande along the way.

I am anxious to hear the roar of the engine, see some alligators  and get back into the rhythm of the Waterway.

On the ICW Again

With good memories and a bit of sadness, we threw off the bow lines last Saturday and said farewell to Charleston. We had a great month there, and can't wait to do it again next year, but it was time to move on.  Just before 7 we waved goodbye to our new friends Ellen and Jeff aboard the Selene 53 Trinity and slipped onto the ICW.

We settled quickly into our ICW routine: up before the sun, coffee on, the Admiral at the wheel and the Cap'n raising the anchor. Once we get moving, I get set up for the day:

Coffee, check, Cell Phone, check, Waterway Guide, check, Water, check, Scribbled Schedule for the Week*, check, iPad for reading the newspapers, email, electronic charts checking in on Facebook, playing Sramble, Googling names of passing boats, etc. check.

* I will admit this is a picture from the trip from the Chesapeake to Charleston.

See how dark it is in the background??  Leaving at 0 dark 30 causes that......

Anyway, this week has been much like others on the ICW. Up early, long hours, ever changing landscape, bridge openings to wait for, shallow spots to negotiate, anchoring mid-to-late afternoon (more late than mid this trip) early dinner, reading or tv, then off to bed, sometimes by 9 -- because the alarm goes off about 5:30AM to do it all again.

It is really not as bad as it may sound -- dolphins swim beside us on a regular basis some offering spectacular shows of agility**, the pelicans entertain us with their awkward dives, about mid-day Tuesday just before we crossed the Georgia Florida line, we noted an increase in Palm trees along with the temperature, and today the water has turned to turquoise.

We have not seen as many boats along the waterway this year -- we are not sure if  we are early or late for the migration, or maybe it's the Sandy effect. We expect a lot of boats who may have planned to head south were delayed by the storm, or may have decided not to make the trip at all.   Everyday, though, we seem to fall into a rhythm with a few other boats, leading or following and exchanging radio messages along the way.

We should be at our winter slip in Stuart, Florida by late this winter afternoon: another  Snow Bird winter begins.

**Dolphins swimming alongside on the Indian River, south of Melbourne, FL:

Pointing the Bow South

Just another Tequila Sunrise

(Note:  We have been without reliable internet connection and/or energy to update the blog all week, so here is a long-winded update.................)

It was cold and clear just after 7am Monday morning when I threw the bow line to our friend Ted aboard Nellie Crockett and we were off!

Last week was a blur of activity as we hunted, gathered, planned and provisioned for Freedom's 2011-2012 trip south.  On Thursday afternoon Monica delivered us to the Sassafras with a carload of supplies and anticipation. Jeff arrived just after we did to complete our navigation system upgrades, and Andy and Christine were not far behind with a CheeseSteak send-off dinner in tow. It was going to be hard to leave such good friends (and children).

 In demonstration of my frenzy known as "leaving for the winter":

After getting up at 6AM, running about all day to: Nordstrom, Wegman's, Costco, CVS, TDBank, and who knows where else, once at the boat I kicked off my flip flops and realized I had been wearing one lilac and one khaki sandal all day. (Yes, I love this style so much I have two pairs. I have worn one or the other every day for the past year. Made by SOLE, get some)

We shared the weekend with the Cruising Club of America's Chesapeake Station Fall Cruise, rafting alongside Nellie Crockett and Blue Moon in Shaw Bay, and on Saturday going ashore on Trippe Creek for a pig roast (yum!). By chatting up the pig-pullers we were rewarded with samples straight off the bone. Sunday found us at the Tred Avon Yacht Club in Oxford for the Station's annual meeting. This was a highlight for us as the Cap'n was presented with the Commodore's Trophy in recognition of his service as Membership Committee Chair.

Crab Bushels, Knapps Narrows, MD

And then it was time to go... Monday we bounced down the Chesapeake Bay in the rain, anchoring overnight at Deltaville, VA. It was a cold, raw night and although there were plenty of boats in the creek, not a creature was stirring.  Tuesday brought similar weather as we battled our way to Norfolk/Portsmouth. Our intent had been to press on past Hampton Roads, but the 4' Gilmerton Lift Bridge was closed to openings (if that makes sense) that day, just one of only two days this month that it is to be closed for this phase of a bridge replacement project.  Although disappointed, it actually worked to our advantage. I was a bit under the weather from the rough seas, the Cap'n had done more than his share of steering over the past few days, and we both needed the break a short day provided.

On Wednesday it was on to Coinjock, but not before we had a long line of bridge openings and one lock to traverse. In light of the previous day's bridge closing, there was quite a back up of boats along that stretch of the ICW. Compounding this,  the first bridge beyond Norfolk is closed every day from 7:30 AM until 9AM. We were among the 20 or so vessels, including one very long barge, milling about for over 45 minutes awaiting the first post rush hour opening. Then the race was on to the Great Bridge Lock near Chesapeake, VA.

The first time we negotiated this lock 18 months we were one of two boats  in the lock--  this time, we were one of 17 boats!  It was cozy, but we made it. We saw the majority of these boats at the dock in Coinjock, NC later that afternoon.

-------------CELEBRITY BOAT SIGHTING-------------

One of the boats in the lock, and then at the Coinjock dock was named "Indiscretion". In fact there were two boats by that name, a 120' motoryacht and a sleek 45' speedboat. At first we thought it was a coincidence, but then I noticed the speedboat driver directing the crew on the motoryacht. "Nice set-up" we thought, "that owner has all the toys."  And just who is that owner?  According to the Google: Howard Stern.  

Please note this was a celebrity boat sight, not a celebrity sighting.

Okay, back to our week.  Fortunately the weather cleared as the days went by and we had calm passages across the Albemarle Sound, Pamlico and Neuse Rivers -- a rarity. We saw our first dolphins today as we glided along Goose Creek off the Pamlico River, a sure sign that we are south.

Right now we are docked in one of our favorite stops along the ICW: Beaufort, NC. In the next slip? A boat named Freedom. Down the dock? Honey Girl,  a red hulled Nordic Tug who has been anchored or docked near us every night this week. And further down the dock? Indiscretion. The snow bird parade continues.....

Home Again, Home Again

It has been a week since Freedom slipped alongside the dock at Sailing Associates Marina in Georgetown, MD. Good friends Andy, Al and Donna, as well as marina owners Patrick and Patty were there to catch our lines, extend a hearty welcome and pass a cold beer across the rails. Six months ago, minus a week, we had left an icy dock and headed south on our Snow Bird adventure.

We had headed up the Chesapeake Bay with mixed emotions: happy to be back in familiar territory, looking forward to seeing family and friends, and yet longing to stay afloat, living by our own schedule. But the strength of friendship pulled us in along with our lines, and it felt good. Afternoon turned into evening as we sat on the Calypso Deck sharing stories and laughs. Home again.

You've heard the expression "It Takes a Village," and once again it rings true. We could not have endeavored such a trip without a lot of help from our friends -- from our "pit crew" on the Sassafras who made sure we were in ship shape before leaving, to the anonymous friends who provided guidance via online sites: Active Captain and Cruisers Net, to the new friends and fellow cruisers we met along the way with their depth of knowledge and willingness to share, to all the friends and family who jumped on board and kept us company -- we could not have done it without a single one of you. Thank You, Thank You!

Time to start thinking about next year..........

Dismal News about the Swamp

We have spent the past week traveling under a Carolina Blue sky from the low country of South Carolina, through the marshlands of northern South Carolina, and past North Carolina's Outer Banks. As I write we are anchored about 30 miles south of the NC/VA border, once again surrounded by marshlands and no signs of civilization.

Fair weather, low winds and flat seas allowed us to traverse the Neuse River, the Pamlico River, and the Albemarle Sound with ease. Last fall we waited three days for a weather window to cross the Albemarle, so this was a great relief.

Our goal for this trip north has been to visit favorite stops, and explore new ones. With a few extra travel days at our disposal we decided to try the Dismal Swamp Canal route between Elizabeth City, NC and Norfolk, VA, instead of the more heavily traveled Virginia Cut/Coinjock-Norfolk route. Although we were a bit concerned about running aground (the 'controlling depth' is 6 feet, meaning the water is no lower than 6' at any point) we decided to forge ahead anyway.

The Great Dismal Swamp is known for its abundance of wildlife and relative lack of human habitation. The name alone enticed us.

 In 1763 George Washington suggested draining the swamp, harvesting the the cypress for shipbuilding and the cedar for shingles. and the cleared land could be used for farming. Washington eventually sold his interest in the land to "Lighthouse" Harry Lee, father of Robert E. Lee. Timber continued to be harvested until the 1950's when the last tree was cut down. After the  Union Camp Company donated its holdings in  1973 the area was designated as the Great Dismal Swamp National Wildlife Refuge.

Edgar Allen Poe is said to have written 'The Raven" in a hotel at the NC/VA border of the swamp, and Edna Ferber crafted "ShowBoat" after seeing Jane Adams' Floating Theatre along the waterway.

So, off we went this morning, destination: The Great Dismal Swamp. Just after we veered off of the well traveled Virginia Cut route along the Albermarle Sound we caught a conversation on Channel 16:
A boater in Elizabeth City was alerting another captain that the Elizabeth City  bridge, height 12' was inoperable, and repairs were being measured in days not hours. I called the bridge tender to confirm.He seemed optimistic that repairs would be completed by days end, but he was not sure what needed to be done. Hmmmm. There is no way Freedom could get under the bridge without an opening, and we were taking a bit of a chance with the controlling depth, as we draw 5'10", and our fuel tanks are full which may make us sit a bit lower.

Sadly, we reset our course, leaving the Dismal Swamp behind. Maybe next time.......


The Great Dismal Swamp was the lure of many men seeking fortune from the vast land and abundant natural supply of valuable lumber. One of the first and most famous  business supporters of the Great Dismal Swamp was George Washington himself.   It was his suggestion to build the actual Canal which was begun in 1793.  There is  now a system of Canals and Ditches including a feeder ditch from Lake Drummond (approximate center of the swamp) which keeps the system supplied with water.  The Dismal Swamp Canal's  first vessel was a shingle flat which christened the canal with the first  voyage in 1805.   The steamship Thomas Newton  was one of many steam vessels to carry freight and passengers through the Great Dismal Swamp.   At one time the swamp was fully commercialized and included a number of Railroads to move the valuable timber to Norfolk and Suffolk and points South. The  historic canal is now recognized as  part of the National Underground Railroad and noted as a former sanctuary for runaway slaves seeking freedom.he Great Dismal Swamp was the lure of many men seeking fortune from the vast land and abundant natural supply of valuable lumber. One of the first and most famous  business supporters of the Great Dismal Swamp was George Washington himself.   It was his suggestion to build the actual Canal which was begun in 1793.  There is  now a system of Canals and Ditches including a feeder ditch from Lake Drummond (approximate center of the swamp) which keeps the system supplied with water.  The Dismal Swamp Canal's  first vessel was a shingle flat which christened the canal with the first  voyage in 1805.   The steamship Thomas Newton  was one of many steam vessels to carry freight and passengers through the Great Dismal Swamp.   At one time the swamp was fully commercialized and included a number of Railroads to move the valuable timber to Norfolk and Suffolk and points South. The  historic canal is now recognized as  part of the National Underground Railroad and noted as a former sanctuary for runaway slaves seeking freedom.The Great Dismal Swamp was the lure of many men seeking fortune from the vast land and abundant natural supply of valuable lumber. One of the first and most famous  business supporters of the Great Dismal Swamp was George Washington himself.   It was his suggestion to build the actual Canal which was begun in 1793.  There is  now a system of Canals and Ditches including a feeder ditch from Lake Drummond (approximate center of the swamp) which keeps the system supplied with water.  The Dismal Swamp Canal's  first vessel was a shingle flat which christened the canal with the first  voyage in 1805.   The steamship Thomas Newton  was one of many steam vessels to carry freight and passengers through the Great Dismal Swamp.   At one time the swamp was fully commercialized and included a number of Railroads to move the valuable timber to Norfolk and Suffolk and points South. The  historic canal is now recognized as  part of the National Underground Railroad and noted as a former sanctuary for runaway slaves seeking freedom.

Finding Forest Gump

We left Beautiful Beaufort this morning, but before I tell you all about I must backtrack to Isle of Hope.  Some friends suggested we stop there for a night or two, instead of another Savannah marina, and we sure are happy they did.

Gusty thunderstorms crossed the area soon after we tied up at Isle of Hope Marina on Saturday. When the rain let up a bit we took the marina loaner car on a shopping trip, picking up some local BBQ for dinner(advertised as 'The Best in South", is wasn't , but it wasn't bad either).

Sunday morning dawned sunny and warm and we set out to tour  Wormsloe, home of Noble Jones who arrived in Georgia in with James Oglethorpe and the first English colonists in 1733. The tabby ruins of is home,  and his gravesite are on display, along with Living History Camps. Wormsloe was one of three plantations built to protect the young colony from Spanish invasion.

The first thing you see upon arriving at Wormsloe is the allee of Live Oak Tees stretching for almost a mile along the dirt driveway. It is the very driveway where Forest Gump ran off his braces in the movie by the same name. Run Forest Run!

Later in the afternoon we walked along Bluff Drive, the 1800's summer playground of Savannah's elite and discovered the true charm of Isle of Hope: A row of picket fence lined cottages, stately homes, dogs asleep on porches, live oak trees dripping with spanish moss, magnolias, children swimming in the river, white azaleas, being greeted as if we were neighbors.  It was like a page from Southern Living Magazine or a scene from a movie.

Beaufort truly is a movie star:  The Big Chill, Prince of Tides, and Forest Gump were all filmed there. It is quintessential low country: stately homes lining the water, where the families of wealthy planters would spend their summers to enjoy the breezes and avoid the heat, humidity and mosquito borne diseases on the plantations; massive live oak trees, some with trunks ups to 12' in diameter,; lush gardens, tended with care; and marshes as far as the eye can see.

Beaufort boasts a lively waterfront  park lined with porch swings suspended from ivy covered arches,  a green where we watched a spirited bocce game, brick walking paths, and an amphitheatre where on summer nights they screen locally filmed flicks. Restaurants over look the park, with a row of shops just a block away.   A bit off the beaten path was The Chocolate Tree, where I picked up a box of chocolates just like Forest did (the shop made his box for the movie)-- and what I got was a delicious assortment. I hope Tom Hanks enjoyed them as much as the Cap'n and I did. I also purchased a handful of suckers made by Parkside Candies, a childhood haunt in Buffalo, NY.

While on a walking tour guided by Jon Sharp, a former Hollywood actor who "shipwrecked " in Beaufort 20 years ago, we were shown historic homes owned by the Cap'ns ancestors as well as homes occupied by famous movie stars while they were in town for filming. Unfortunately, in the early 1900's fire destroyed over 40 ante-bellum homes. Despite that loss, the town is still full of homes built in classic West Indies style, situated to catch the prevailing summer southern winds, with high basements, double staircases known as 'the welcoming arms of the south' and wrap around porches.

We'll be back to Beaufort......

(PS; pictures to follow)

Georgia

Just after 7:30 on Thursday morning fellow CYCers Jamie and Meg tossed us the last of our lines and we slipped away from the dock at Fernandina, Amelia Island. Within an hour, and after 4 sun drenched and adventure filled months, Freedom left Florida.

Fernandina Beach has become one of our favorite stops along the ICW. The town is full of brick sidewalks, charming homes,  and unique shops and restaurants. The air is filled with the hum of the pulp mill, the scent of wood, the sound of a train whistle.  Like many of the other Florida towns we have visited (St. Pete, Stuart, Daytona) the nearby shopping district had few, if any, national chains -- the boutiques, bakeries and restaurants are almost all locally owned, or at least Florida-based chains.  It is such a breath of fresh air and really gives you a sense of place instead of feeling like you could be in "Anywhere USA." From conversations with locals around the state, the dedication to local businesses is widespread, intentional and a point of pride. I like that in a State!

Here's a photo of one of the two Pulp Mills lining the waterfront in Fernandina Beach. It reminds of the game Chutes and Ladders.

We are now traveling a bit of the ICW that we bypassed in the fall by "going outside" ie, in the ocean. Georgia is know for its shallow waters, but so far so good. We made it through the Little Mud River and Hell gate (at low tide, even) without touching bottom.  Phew!

Along with the low water, or perhaps the reason for it, the ICW in Georgia snakes its way through isolated marshlands. We are still traveling in solitude. passing the occasional sailboat, trawler or local fishing boat, but for the most part we are on our own. For the past two nights we have settled into isolated anchorages, with only the pelicans, gulls, and gnats as company. Thursday night we anchored in the Darien River and watched burning sugar cane fields light up the shy after sunset.The next morning Freedom was covered in ash

Last night, we anchored in Walburg Creek, mile 625, of of St. Catherine's Island. The St. Catherine's Island Foundation owns the island and maintains a survival center there for endangered species such as gazelle, parrots and Madagascar turtles.

The next part of our trip has been subject to much debate: Should we go up the river and dock along the bulkhead in Savannah? Will the commercial traffic be an issue? Should we bypass Savannah and go to Hilton Head? If so, for how long, and which marina? How long should we stay in Beaufort - one night or two?  (Going to Beaufort was never a question) The only caveat was  our slip reservation (and dinner reservation!) in Charleston next Thursday for three nights.

At last, a plan was made. Here we are in Isle of Hope, GA, just outside of Savannah, where we plan to stay for two nights before moving on to Beaufort, SC for 2 nights, with one night at anchor before Charleston. The marina has a loaner car, so a provisioning trip is scheduled for later today -- hopefully after the thunderstorms have ended.

Heading North

The last line was pulled on deck at 7:15 am and we were off. It's been a great winter in Florida.

Cruising FAQ's

Over the course of our extended cruise this winter, we have been lucky enough to share our journey with an assortment of family and friends,  be it for a few nights, a week, or even just cocktails on the Calypso Deck. Some have been experienced boaters and others lifetime landlubbers. No matter the asker's status, some questions have been posed with regularity. Perhaps you, treasured reader of this blog, might be just as curious. So, here are our top Cruising Questions and Answers:

What Do You Do All Day?

It depends. 

If we are on the move, we are up with sun and underway before the first pot of coffee is brewed. On such days we spend most of the day in the Pilot House taking turns navigating and steering, all the while keeping an eye out for other boats, marks, dolphins, or anything else out there on the water. If we have friends on board, I might slip away to exercise in the cockpit or to do some computer work in the salon. I am also in charge of keeping the crew fed, so unless I am seasick, I am in the galley too.

While traveling, we try to reach our destination by 3PM. If we are at a dock we go onshore for a walk or a trip to the grocery. Whether we are at a dock or at anchor we always take time to plot our course for the next day and focus on any repairs that have come to our attention during the day. A nap is always nice too!

It is often early to bed while we are traveling but sometimes after dinner we watch tv or enjoy a round of Catchphrase or cards.

If we are tied up at a dock, we still have a full day. If you ever read US Weekly, you are familiar with a feature they call "Celebrities, They're Just Like Us!" I would say our cruising schedule is just like the one we follow at home - other than not getting up every 10 minutes to let the dogs in or out. Cruising Couples, They’re Just Like You!

Typically we will get up between 6 & 6:30, put the coffee on, read the paper on the iPad, check our email, watch the CBS Morning News, eat breakfast, and workout (either in the cockpit with the TRX or free weights, or with a long walkor bike ride).  There is always something that needs to be cleaned or fixed onboard, and the Cap'n keeps a long to-do list. While he is working on his projects, I might head to the laundry or the grocery, attack a cleaning project, work on the blog (I know, not as much as I should), research marinas, travel plans, etc. for future trips, or oversee matters relating to our house on shore. From time to time we both have volunteer duties that we attend to via the Internet. 

After lunch we have Siesta Time for about an hour, and then we typically have an adventure. Yesterday we took a 6.5 mile round trip bike ride to Barnes and Noble to purchase books 2 and 3 of The Hunger Games series. I devoured book 1 last week,and the Cap'n is currently captivated. We both read a lot while cruising. Other recent favorites include: Unbroken, by Laura Hillenbrand; Molokai'i ; and The Paris Wife. We also read a good number of magazines: Passage Maker and Cruising World for the Cap'n and O, the Oprah Magazine and Fine Cooking for me., and the local papers as well as the Philadelphia Inquirer.

Before dinner we like to enjoy refreshments on the Calypso Deck and watch the sunset. After dinner we tend to read, watch TV, or if we have friends along, play a game or two. And,I admit to spending a certain amount of time surfing the web, playing Words with Friends, or pinning on Pinterest.

We also try to get to  catch some local flavor wherever we are: an art gallery, a historical museum, a concert, the Farmer's Market, etc.

Can You Really Anchor Overnight Where Ever You Want?

Sort Of.  

As long as the spot we select to anchor is deep enough, is not in the shipping channel, or is not posted as a restricted area, we can anchor there. Not everyplace is good for anchoring though. We need to take into consideration wind direction, "holding" potential -- is the bottom sandy, rocky, muddy, current, and boat wakes (bouncing around all night is not fun!)

Among my favorite places to anchor are in sight if a city skyline or in the middle of nowhere -- with the middle of nowhere, as in no cell service, being the best.

How Often Do you Refuel?

Every 6 months

We burn 3 gallons per hour at 8 knots of speed. Freedom is known  as a Trawler, aka a ‘Turtle’. We carry our house on our back and travel slowly. We might not cover as much ground as quickly as some boats, but we sure are efficient on fuel use!

If You Are Traveling Overnight Do You Stop to Sleep?

No, everyone takes turns being on watch and the boat moves 24/7.

Do You Eat All of Your Meals On Board?

Breakfast, almost always.

Lunch, mostly.

Dinner, 6 out of 7 nights (unless we have friends aboard or we have an enticing array of restaurants to try)

Happy Hour is the most frequently enjoyed ‘meal’  onshore. Especially here in Florida we have found that many bars/restaurants offer drink and appetizer specials during Happy Hour (anywhere from 2 - 5, to 4-6, to 4-closing), and that careful selection of appetizers can make a meal. And we never would have discovered Fish Dip if it wasn’t for Happy Hour (see MarthasGalley.blogspot.com for the recipe)


In general, eating on board is better for our budget and our waistline, and you can't beat the view!

How Do You Get to the Grocery Store?

Two feet, two wheels, the random rental car and the kindness of strangers. 

If we cannot walk to a grocery, we ride our bikes. If we need more than we can fit in a backpack and/or bike basket we walk to the market and call a cab for the ride back.

Some marinas offer transportation: either a car you can borrow for an hour,  or a regularly scheduled shuttle bus, or an ad hoc system: call when you are finished shopping and they will pick you up. 

Anyone who comes to visit with a car is often called into service to make a grocery run for heavy things (sleeves of soda, quarts of chicken stock, jars of mayo, gallons of vinegar, cases of beer - thank you Bryant and Bill!)

A few times this winter we have rented a car for Costco/Target/Walmart runs. Those have been my favorite stocking runs!


How Do You Get Your Mail?


We pay almost all of our bills online. Everything else is delivered to our home in PA, and our housesitting K'dults sort it and send us those items they feel we need to see. Most marinas are happy to receive packages for boat owners, and keep them until you arrive.
If you don't have anyone at home to forward your mail, there are companies who will do that for you. In fact, they can make sure you get your mail no matter where you are in the world. Many popular cruising locations have designated mail drops where you can arrange to claim whatever cannot be sent via email.

Can You Really Run That Boat All By Yourselves?

Yes

Where Else Do You Want to Go on Freedom?

Okay, no one has asked this, but I want to answer...

Martha: Cuba (Pres. Obama? Gov. Romney? who’s going to lift the restrictions????)

Cap’n: Rio Dulce in Guatemala; Maine; Anywhere with the Admiral (aka, Martha)!

All Locked Up on the Okeechobee

Our trip through the Okeechobee Waterway was a feast for the eyes and the imagination. On day one, while the Captain steered Mike kept his binoculars trained on the shoreline for alligators and other wildlife. Soon it was time to enter our first lock and begin to rise up to the lake level. As the Captain called the lock tender to request passage out of the corner of my eye I noticed a canoeist just to the left of the gates. "He must be watching the boat traffic," I assumed, and went about setting the fenders on the port side. About the same time I heard the lock master saying something about the manatees, but again, did not give it much thought.

I ran to get my camera as the lock gates began to close and as I pointed the camera aft I discovered that the canoeist was sharing the lock with us. I gave him a wave and asked where he was headed. The response awed me: "Well, I'm doing the Great Loop*. I left Iowa on October 15th, took me a little bit to get to the Mississippi, but I've been traveling ever since. If I get to Chicago by October 1st I'll be in good shape to make it around in just about a year."

*"The Great Loop is the continuous waterway that encompasses the eastern portion of North America including the Atlantic and Gulf Intracoastal Waterways, the Great Lakes, the Canadian Heritage Canals, and the inland rivers of America's heartland." www.greatloop.org/

Okay, we have met A LOT of "Loopers", but all of them in boats of at least 30 feet, gas or diesel powered boats, not paddle-powered. This was an interesting guy.

We continued to converse over the sound of the water: He was traveling alone, on a good day he paddles 20 miles, and sleeps most night in a tent on the dredge spoil that lines the waterway. He looked to be in his late 50's/early 60's and we so hope to cross his path again as we head north. Oh, the places he will go, the sights he will see and the stories he will have to tell.

Once the lock was full, and the gate off our bow was open I expected the Cap'n to put the boat in gear and head out, but he hesitated remembering the warning given to him by the lock tender: "Don't go anywhere until the Manatees have left the lock"
Sure enough, 2 manatees swam by and continued on their journey across the Okeechobee.

We "locked" a second time that day, without companionship and by mid-afternoon we had arrived at the edge of the lake. We had two options for overnight accomodations: a local marina with questionable water depths and a reputation for less than friendly owners or tying alongside "the dolphins". I pictured decorative dolphins, complete with cleats, lining the waterway. But here is what they really look like:

The line you see on the right is extended from our stern to the dolphin, and there is another on the bow. Attaching the first line was easy (sort of) - the Cap'n motored the boat as cose as he could, and Mike reached out and looped the cleat. Aft was another story. With the bow line stretching as far as it could, we had to hold the line with the boat hook and r-e-a-c-h out over the railings on the upper deck. The weight was just to heavy for me and in the nick of time Mike, with Lan cheering him on, came to my rescue and we were secured for the night. Then the fruitless alligator hunt began.....

Here is all I have to say about sunrise the next day:

and

The Cap'n showed off his rodeo skills by unhooking us from the dolphins with a quick flick of the wrist and soon we were on Lake Okeechobee:

Looks mysterious, doesn't it? The dark clouds in the second photo are caused by a fire in the sugar cane fields. The fields are burned before harvest to eliminate weeds. And if the wind is blowing in your direction, you are covered by small bits of ash - even if you are miles away.

Uncharacteristically, the lake was calm, and our trip uneventful. For me it was a bittersweet experience to "lock" for the last time and drop 13 feet on the far side, symbolizing the end of our adventure to Florida's West Coast.

We've been on shore leave for the past few weeks -- and after a string of raw northeast days, we can't wait to get back to the Sunshine State!

On the the Okeechobee

After one last Friday Night Happy Hour on Dock Four, we sadly threw off the lines and left St. Petersburg Saturday morning February 11th. We may have jumped the gun a bit, as the wind and waves made for a bumpy ride south to Sarasota Bay. Particularly difficult was the passage through LongBoat Pass where a sandbar and the bridge fenders seemed to want to say hello.

Sunday dawned cold and breezy as we made our way to Sarasota's Marina Jack where good friends Mike and Lan came aboard. We filled the afternoon with a walk along the waterfront and a power trip to the Ringling Museum. We all loved the miniature circus display - you could almost smell then sawdust and hear the ringmasters call.

After a cold weekend, the endless blue skies, crisp mornings and warm (but not too hot) afternoons have returned to Florida. The past few days have been just about perfect, weather wise and from a cruising standpoint: sea glass colored calm waters, dolphins catching a wave along the starboard side, salmon sunsets, starry nights, and just enough navigation and bridges to keep us on our toes.

While we were anchored off of Useppa Island on Monday night we dinghyed over to the Cabbage Inn where it is said Jimmy Buffet was inspired to write "Cheeseburger in Paradise". Amazingly, they do not offer their claim to fame at dinner, so back we went to Freedom for cocktails and the sunset on the Calypso Deck .

Valentine's day brought us to Ft. Myers and a fun dinner on board with Uncle Bill, Aunt Jane and A2. Sailing stories were told amid much laughter.

And now we are off to the much anticipated trip across the Caloosahatchie River and through Lake Okeechobee. The guides books caution us to check our swim platform before leaving the dock each morning - lest we bring an alligator along for the day's ride!

Snow Birds

There hasn't been much snow up north this winter, but friends and family have still flown down to escape the cold and clouds. Unfortunately, I have not gotten a picture of everyone (we get chatting and I forget to pull out the camera), but here are some pictures of a few of our guests:

My brother Peter and sister-in-law Mary soaking up the sun on our way back from Tarpon Springs.

Tim and Susan snuggling up through their Zac Brown Band Zamily initiation at the Florida State Fairgrounds on January 28th. What a great concert that was!

This little guy tried to stow away in the dinghy. Not technically a snow bird, but he did visit with us for a while. Alas, he was too small for dinner, so we sent him back to the Gulf of Mexico to get some more meat on his bones

Stay tuned -- I'll be updating the portrait gallery as time goes by.....