Freedom Forever

Late last week the Cap'n looked out the window at the anchorage and said "There's Uncle Harry's old boat." "Oh yeah, I replied, That does look just like his boat.". "No, the Cap'n said, that is his boat."

Yes, the Cap'n knows his boats -- it has been said that he knows boats the way some know cars - boat builder, size, year built, he can call it all, even at a distance. Still, I needed to be convinced.

"And look, he said, it's still called Freedom."  I grabbed the binoculars. Sure enough, he was right. There she was, a 48' Jarvis Newman Lobster Boat.  Uncle Harry passed away several years ago, and had sold her boat at least a few years before that. The last time I recall seeing it was when our now 22 year old son was 7 and we were docked side by side in Rock Hall, MD. A the time we owned a green hulled 38" Jarvis Newman Lobster Boat named Freedom -- a mini-me to Uncle Harry's.

(Longtime readers of this blog will remember that 'Freedom' is a family boat named -- first established by his maternal grandfather,passed on to Harry and then from Harry to the Cap'n)

Excitedly, we tried to raise the current owners via VHF, but they had turned off their radio and were enjoying the sunset after a day of travel. The next morning, after a night of heavy rains, they tied up right in front of us. The Cap'n was thrilled to see how well she has been maintained and to hear where she has been over the many years since our Rock Hall meeting.

What are the chances: Two green hulled motor vessels,  docked in tandem, sharing a family name and a family link? It's a small world after all.

Two Freedoms

Uncle Harry's boat has the beautifully classic lines of the lobster hull

Springing Forward

Spring has tentatively arrived in Charleston. The tulip magnolias and azalea are in bloom, and the temperatures have warmed a bit.  Mother Nature is still not fully ready to commit to the change in seasons, but we are. It is time for us to spring forward with our projects and plans as our departure date is just three weeks away.

We are about mid-way through our long awaited septic system reconfiguration.  Old hoses out, new ( and fewer) hoses in! Yea.  The only downside is "the facilities" are out of commission. As a result we moved from our spot waaaayyyy out on the Megadock to one closer to the bathhouse.  A more social,  much busier location, with a perfect "Mrs Cravitz" vantage point it suited us well for several nights....until the slip holder came back and we had to move again. Now we are back on the Megadock, yet still close to the washrooms.  All afternoon we have enjoyed watching the confused looks on  fellow slip holders and marina employees as they have passed by.  We can almost hear them think "Wait, didn't they just move last week?"

The best part about this slip is our front row river view. Not long after we tied up the Cap'n notice 6 dolphins playing just off our port side.  We may have to move again when the weekly cruise ship arrives on Friday, but for now we can't complain.

In addition to boat projects we are  checking off our Charleston To-Do list: ie, all the things we meant to do all winter.  There are restaurants to visit, museums to tour and at least one plantation yet to see. Add that to a visit from the k'dults, tickets to a few cultural events and provisioning errands it promises to be a busy few weeks.

Dolphins Off the Dock

I've said it before, and I'll say it again: This has been a  long, cold and lately, rainy winter here in the low country. I know I get no sympathy from our friends up north who have been slogging through endless snow storms, school closings and power outages, but all the same, it is miserable here.

We have been cheered by the random days of flip flop weather and the recent appearance of large numbers of dolphins in the Ashley River. It was about three weeks ago that I first noticed them - groups of 3 -5 arching to the surface and gracefully diving beneath.  As Ham and I walk to shore before bed we can't see them, the color of their skin matching that of the waves, but we can hear them breaking the surface to breath,   "refilling the lung in one fifth of a second through an explosive blow which can reach velocities up to one hundred miles per hour."  (www.dolphinsworld.com)

At dawn, they spread ripples across the calm waters as they rhythmically breath and dive. From time to time, a pair will swim into the marina, weaving between and beneath the boats. I have learned that dolphins breathe purposefully, not automatically like humans do. Consequently, they can never fall completely asleep or else they will drown. One half of their brain always stays awake to continue sending the right messages to the lungs

We rarely see a solo dolphin. Some are in adult pairs, some are family pods of two adults and a child, and once I saw a group of 10. As we have traveled along the Intra-coastal we never see groups of more than 4, so such a large pod was exciting.

One sunny day I stepped into the cockpit and noticed a group of three playing just yards from the dock. One briefly disappeared and then emerged in a vertical leap between his two companions. It was a spectacular Sea World-worthy show.  I have always thought such behavior indicated a playfulness among dolphins -- simply a way to use up some energy on a beautiful day. Turns out it has a practical purpose -- such a leap from the water is called a "Spy Hop."  It allows a dolphin to get a good look at what is going on above the surface of the water.

No one is quite sure why we have so many resident dolphins in the river now: some have suggested it is mating season, although dolphins mate all year there is a spike in spring and fall , others think they are attracted by a higher number of fish in the area. All I know is that they have provided us with some beautiful sights and sounds as we wait patiently for spring.... 

Stuck in Colder Weather

Actually, we're stuck on the boat, at the dock, and the weather is much colder than we ever imagined.

Before I natter on about my cold feet and ever growing cabin fever,  let's go back to October, and listen in on a conversation between me and the Cap'n:

The Admiral: "I think we should stay here in Charleston for the winter. There's lots to do, and the restaurants are great. How cold do you think it gets?"

The Captain: "It  is nice here, but it won't be as warm as Florida."

The Admiral:" I know but really, how cold could it get?  And it will be a good jumping off point for The Loop.".

The Captain "That's true. You might not be able to wear your flip flops all the time."

The Admiral: "I know, but I have asked around and everyone says it doesn't really get that cold, not like up north.  There are palm trees here -- how cold could it get?"

Fast forward to January 28th:

Okay, that cold. Icicle cold. Ice and snow on the dock cold. The City of Charleston closed for a day cold. Bridges in and out of the city closed because of icy surfaces cold. Record low high temperature in Charleston cold. Colder than I had signed up for cold.

As I write we have not been off the boat in 48 hours -- minus the brief and treacherous walk up the dock taken by the Cap'n and Hamilton yesterday afternoon  Soon after returning to the safety of  Freedom Ham willingly gave up his very high standard of  never "pottying" on board. Desperate times require desperate measures.

The marina was eerily quiet yesterday. A typical day has the marina staff riding by on their golf carts with some regularity, service technicians and crew hopping on and off occupied and unoccupied boats, local residents and office workers out for a stroll, and a steady trickle of boats pulling up for fuel or overnight dockage. Yesterday we saw a few smokers on the dock, an adventuresome ( or crazy) guy motor by on his small power boat, and the occasional car pass by on the road that hugs the harbor. We didn't even see any birds until late in the day.

We spent the day doing chores, looking out the windows, watching local tv reports of storm closings, and power outages, snapping photos, doing jumping jacks to keep warm ( or at least I did) and indulging in an American Pickers marathon. Even Hamilton, the dog who never met a weather system he didn't like, decided it was best just to snuggle up on the settee and nap.

From my galley widow I can see that life on shore is a bit closer to normal today: cars are driving at normal speeds on the road and near by bridge. There is still  little activity on the dock, but marina staff member rode out with today's paper. Warming temperatures and a light rain have washed away much of the ice and a family walk is planned for later this afternoon.

Maybe tomorrow will be better........

Here are a few photos of sights we never thought we would see, and quite honestly, hope never to see again:

Snow and ice on the bow

The Cap'n crawling across the icy cockpit to pull the potty rug closer to the door

You expect me to potty on that?  No way!

Ham hanging out in the snow

Snowy dock, looking south

Another view of the snow covered dock

The dock looking north. That's ice on the pilings

The Best and The Worst

After a Thanksgiving shore leave we are back in Charleston -- happily well south south of the early winter snows in PA.  As usual, our days are filled with the Cap'ns chore list, dog walks, and Loop planning.  Walking about the city is a special treat now as Charleston is dressed for Christmas -- offering a bit of southern charm we don't see up north magnolia leaf wreaths adorn doors and fences.

Here at the MegaDock the parade of southbound boats continues.  The most recent wave are either 1) owner operated vessels who waited until after Thanksgiving to leave the Chesapeake Bay or 2) professional crews moving new boats south for the Ft. Lauderdale boat show. This group of boats are smaller than what we saw earlier in the season -- the mega yachts safely in their Florida slips awaiting winter charters and/or owner visits.

There is not much more to report, so I though I would share the results of an informal poll I took of the Freedom crew:

Question:  What are the Best and Worst parts of living on a boat in Charleston?

The Cap'n: Best: "It's a Boat, and the weather is pretty good"
                    Worst: "Dog needs" (this response came soon after an unfortunate                                           2AM incident involving vomit)

The Admiral: Best: "The fulfillment of a long time dream to live in Charleston;                                              Wearing flip flops in December; Fabulous                                                                        Food;Sunrises and Sunsets; Carolina blue skies;                                             other than washing dishes by hand, less housework"
                      Worst: "No walks or lunches out with my friends.                                                                 Walking Ham up the dock in high winds or when                                                     he sees another dog".

Miles: Best: "Mom can never get more than 10 ft away from me."
            Worst: "The long walk to shore -- it hurts my hips".

Hamilton: Best: "Mom can never get more than 10 ft away from me. All the                                             attention I get from boaters who miss their dogs".
                   Worst: "Not being able to run around on my own".

We're here for another week before heading north for a month or so on shore....

Settled in South Carolina

Evening on the Wadmalaw River. Our last anchorage before arriving in Charleston. It even smelled like South Carolina.

On Monday October 14th we said good bye to our traveling companions and forged on ahead to Charleston. Since we arrived on the 16th we have enjoyed two days of fun, food and music at the Southern Ground Music and Food Festival, organized Freedom for the live aboard life, rode our bikes around town, eaten some fabulous food at local restaurants,  celebrated Halloween, and gotten lots of exercise!  Our slip at the Charleston City Marina is .4 mile from shore. That's a long way at 5:45 AM when you are rushing to get a dog to shore, not to mention the 4 other walks each day, and trips the laundry or heads ( half way to shore).  But, it does give us the opportunity to meet other slip holders, admire their boats, and keep fit.

It only took a few days for us to decide to stay put for the winter. There is lots for us to do and explore here in the low country and we are just a days drive from our onshore home. Charleston also serves as the perfect starting point for our 2014 Great Loop Adventure.

There is always something going on here on the MegaDock.  As the snow birds and charter boats head south to Florida or the islands, the dock space near us fills up every night and clears out every morning, affording us an ever changing array of boats to look at and a beautiful view of the harbor all day long.  The first engines fire up as early as 5:30 AM, serving as an alarm clock for the me and the dogs.

Morning in the Marina-hood

There are many boats here for the long term too, and most of them have crews who are constantly busy cleaning something -- the hull, the water line, fenders, stainless steel fittings. Once they finish all that, they start again. It's exhausting to watch -- but their boats do look fabulous.  We're among the only "do it yourselfers" on our stretch of dock and the Cap'n has a long list of projects for us too. Unlike the paid crews, though, we take a lot of breaks.

So, here we are: settled in South Carolina for the winter.

Gated Charleston

Gated Charleston

While walking the streets of Charleston, it doesn't take long to realize that gates are popular there. Originally designed to keep out unwanted guests (human and livestock), today I like to think they are more decorative than declarative.

One day I took a Gate Safari and this is what I saw:

Some are quite simple:

Some are imposing

Most are made of iron.....

But some are made of wood....

Many are quite ornate....

Some offer an intriguing peek at what lies beyond......

Many feature a rosette design.....

And some are historic.....

But they are all beautiful.........

Preserved vs. Restored

The Cap'n and I have continued our house touring over the past few weeks. There seems to be a bit of history at every corner, and fortunately for us, what wasn't burned in the war is still available for us to enjoy.

There is great emphasis placed on the difference between Preserved homes and Restored homes. For example last weekend we visited two planation homes along the Ashley River: Drayton hall and Magnolia Plantation. Drayton Hall is the only plantation home along the Ashley that was not burned or somehow destroyed in the War of Northern Aggression. After the war, the Drayton family continued to own and occupy the residence until 1974 when it became a  property of the National Trust for Historic Preservation.  Drayton Hall has been Preserved, meaning no changes have been made to the structure by the National Trust. In fact, even the family did not add any modern conveniences, such as bathrooms, to the house.

Here is Drayton Hall, a prime example of Georgian Revival Architecture, focusing on the 3 B's: Big, Bold and Balanced:

A view to the river  from the second floor

The rooms of Drayton Hall are empty of furniture, but as our tour guide promised, she filled them with stories of planation life, family life and the history of our country.  The walls and ceilings themselves have stories to tell, offering glimpses of the original paint colors and intricate carvings:

A family growth chart dating back to the 1800's:

In this photo below, notice the brown area in the center. From chemical studies of the wall, it has been suggested that the discoloration was caused by the oils in human skin. Perhaps this is where an enslaved worker stood, hands behind his back,  awaiting his master's orders:

Here is the lower level hearth where meals were prepared (with sleeping quarters to the right). In summer months the family would sometimes take their meals here where it was cooler, requiring the enslaved workers to rearrange the furniture. The last owner of the house, Miss Charlotta, would often "camp out" on this level, running an extension cord from the caretaker's cottage to operate her fridge.:

I really enjoyed this Preserved home. A few online reviews said it was boring because there was nothing too look at. Instead, it allowed us to use our imaginations and see the layer of years.

In contrast, built in 1808 the Nathaniel Russell Museum in is a Restored  Federal townhouse near Charleston's Battery. According to the Historic Charleston Foundation's website "Set amid spacious formal gardens, the Nathaniel Russell House is a National Historic Landmark and is widely recognized as one of America's most important neoclassical dwellings."

It has been Restored to reflect life in the early to mid-1800's, using replica wallpaper and some period furniture although very few pieces are from the Russell family collection. The most significant detail of the house is the 3 story free-flying Honduran mahogany staircase. Once current renovations to the house are complete visitors will not be invited to climb the stairs - we were lucky to be among the last to do so. Our guide explained that the staircase is getting 'tired.' She led the way up the steps, admonishing us to hold on to the right hand rail!

Hanging above the staircase is a 1786 George Romney portrait of Mary Rutledge Smith, a prominent Charlestonian, with her son Edward.  We were not allowed to take any photos indoors, so this is all I can share. It is a beautiful home, used primarily as a private residence over the years by the Russell family, but also employed as a Catholic girls boarding school for as time.

Preserved or Restored?  There is a need for both -- but for now, I vote for Preserved!

Charleston

We did not venture far from Freedom yesterday as Sandy stirred up some high winds and heavy rains, so I was happy we spent the preceding days getting out  and immersing ourselves in the history of  Charleston. Tuesday morning we took our new folding bikes for their inaugural spin along the waterfront and through the Battery to White Point Gardens. It was a great way to get used to our bikes, enjoy some exercise and explore a charming neighborhood.


On Wednesday morning we took the ferry to Ft. Sumter -- a short 30 minute ride across the harbor. Before boarding the ferry we spent some time exploring the garden at Liberty Square and the terrific indoor display about Charleston's political, business and social environments before the war, and the role of Ft.Sumter and Ft. Moultrie in the war.

The garden was dotted with reflections on freedom such as these:

If you recall, the Capn's family has deep roots here in the low country, and we found at lease one ancestor at Liberty Place:

Then it was on to the Fort -- where the first shot of the War of Northern Aggression exploded on April 12, 1861

This cannon had a direct line of site to Charleston.

At the time of the war these walls were 50 ft. high. Now they are only 25 ft. The fort was built on a sandbar, but has withstood war, shifting currents, and the test of time

On Thursday evening we participated in the Preservation Society of Charleston's tour of  Church Street homes, one of the original streets in the Grand Modell, the earliest plan of the city made in 1672. It is considered to be one of the most beautiful streets in America.  And once again,we found some family ties:

This Georgian style home was the most beautiful stop on the tour , filled with antique furnishings, wallpaper hand painted in Taiwan, and a 13th century tapestry. Ninety percent of its original woodwork remains -- allowing us to climb the same mahogany staircase that the Capn's family (this time the Elliott's) climbed over two centuries ago. 

The tour also featured the home of Frank Abignale, portrayed by Leonardo DiCaprio in Catch Me If You Can. It has been beautifully restored into a comfortable family home mixing old finishes with modern conveniences -- but we loved seeing the movie screen play casually displayed on the coffee table, he celebrity photos and the large framed Pan Am poster.

Friday evening found us at the Historic Charleston Foundation's Tour de Graves, in Magnolia Cemetery, resting place of many notable Charlestonians and you guessed it, more ancestors. We saw a few of their graves, but that was not the focus of our visit. Instead, the docents stationed throughout the former park directed our attention to: 

The Soldier's Ground:

Little Annie's Memorial:

The graves to her left were those of her siblings. We saw another family plot where 5 of 7 children were buried, with one memorial featuring the death mask of the deceased infant.

A Monument Designed by Louis C. Tiffany:

Several Mausoleums - some ornate, some simple - but all, like this one, containing only dust..... (I know because I borrowed the Capn's flashlight, entered the first gate and took a look through the second)

And an 1100 year old Live Oak:

As the sun set over Magnolia Cemetery, we headed out to dinner. All in all it was a busy and interesting week. In light of the impending storm we canceled our weekend plans to visit a few nearby plantations, but there is always next week.  

Sandy

If you are worried about how we are faring in the face of Sandy, don't. We are safe, dry, and snug here at the Charleston City Marina dock. So far (2:30 pm Saturday 10/27/12) Sandy is mostly a non-event. Yes it is raining, and a bit windy -- but we have seen far worse on a previous visits to the Holy City and at anchor along the ICW. Things may pipe up as the day goes by, but the heart of the storm is well to the east and we will ride it out easily. It looks like all y'all up north might be in for a much bumpier ride. Hang on!!!

PS -- weekly update later today or tomorrow

Southern Ground Music and Food Festival

In our box on Sunday waiting for dinner and the show!!!

We left the Chesapeake Bay nearly three weeks earlier this year than last. We had a deadline to meet and we were not going to miss it: the second annual Southern Ground Music and Food Festival. The brain child of Zac Brown, leader of the Zac Brown Band, the festival is designed to bring together his two loves: music and food. And he brought it for us, that's for sure.

Set at Blackbaud Stadium, just outside of Charleston, and with the (Carolina) "blue sky breeze blowing wind through our hair" we feasted on two days of endless music and an array of local food offerings.  With friends Diana and Tom,who flew up from Florida, we had a blast.

Who did we hear?

Charlie Daniels Band -- as good as ever -- man can he play the fiddle.......
The Avett Brothers -- a little bit of blue grass, a little bit of rock, a lot of energy and musical talent -- the first time we had seen them and the first time we had ever seen anyone dance around a stage with their bass fiddle.
Levi Lowery -- Big beard, great voice, a southern soul
Michael Franti and Spearhead-- daughter Monica told me I would love him -- she was right. Tall, dreadlocked and barefoot, he got the crowd jumping (literally jumping and fist pumping)for his entire 40 minute set. And his guitar player only added to the frenzy. Franti reminded us to vote, told us about his good fortune to be adopted, brought fans young and old on stage to dance with him, and added at least 4 more members to his fan club. Check him out!!
John Driskell Hopkins & Balsam Range -- Hopkins is the free form handle-bar mustache member of ZBB
The Jerry Douglas Band -- Multi-Grammy winner. Bluegrass at its best.
The Wailers -- Looking at the crowd I saw a lot of conservatively dressed middle-aged white women gettin' their groove on and singing along to the Wailers.

Darius Rucker -- Former lead singer of Hootie and the Blowfish, this Charlestonian only stopped by for one song -- it felt like he just came by after dinner for a visit - but one song is better than none. What a unique voice he has.
Gregg Allman -- the legend
John Mayer --

 Not singing these days, but who cares, he is a guitar god. His solos with ZBB were among the best musical performances I have ever experienced. Second only to each of the four times in the past 10 months that I have seen......

Zac Brown Band -- a full concert set two nights in a row. On Sunday night we were lucky enough to be in Stage Box Seats -- yep  right on one of the piers radiating from the main stage affording us an up close and personal view of the performers. How close? Here's a photo of Jimmy DiMartini, of ZBB, right in front of us on the stage:

See Zac all the way down on the left? (No not the Jack Daniels statue, the guy playing guitar) On his way back he high-fived me!!

When we were not listening to the music we......

Hung out in the VIP tent -- comfy couches, football in the 3 tv's,  conversation with other fans, snacks and complimentary* beverages (*complimentary = included in the price of an upgraded ticket)

The in and out of the VIP tent

Watched the Southern Ground artists pose for their Christmas photo.

Just after snapping this photo the security guard said I had to stop. Eventually about three rows were filled with all the artists, including Zac, wearing a variety of holiday themed hats

Walked through the vendor tents

Ate some fabulous Pickled Shrimp Tacos from the Cork food truck

Shared Sunday Breakfast with the Zamily (ZBB fan club), making new friends from all over the country,  landing some swag and learning more about Camp Southern Ground, set to open in 2014, where "children with both typical and special needs will come together to learn life skills and teamwork in a positive, healthy and organic environment."

Had Sunday dinner in our Box on the Stage, cooked by a quintet of chefs including ZBB's own Rusty Hamlin.

Me, Diana and Rusty

Random thoughts --

SGMFF was one of my best weekends ever. 

Southern women have impeccable hygiene, and dress up for an outdoor concert on a soccer field much more than mid-atlantic women do -- dresses, bedazzled jeans, beautiful accessories, cute shoes.

Southerners can rock the denim -- nary a pair of khaki pants were seen either day.

Southerners know and love their Jack Daniels.

The sound at Blackbaud Stadium is Awesome -- much better than at most "music" venues

Check out the YouTube videos of Neon/Isn't She Lovely

You are never too old to be a groupie.

ZBB and Southern Ground Artists are good people and a class act -- they put on a great two days - terrific music,; helpful, friendly staffing; great food;  good prices (eg no food options were over $10, most were $8 or less for a full meal, offering everything from bbq to souvlaki to falafel; beers were $5 not the typical $8-10 venue pricing) and a real focus on thanking their fans and their Zamily, and giving back (eg Camp Southern Ground)

I can't wait for next year!