Settled in South Carolina

Evening on the Wadmalaw River. Our last anchorage before arriving in Charleston. It even smelled like South Carolina.

On Monday October 14th we said good bye to our traveling companions and forged on ahead to Charleston. Since we arrived on the 16th we have enjoyed two days of fun, food and music at the Southern Ground Music and Food Festival, organized Freedom for the live aboard life, rode our bikes around town, eaten some fabulous food at local restaurants,  celebrated Halloween, and gotten lots of exercise!  Our slip at the Charleston City Marina is .4 mile from shore. That's a long way at 5:45 AM when you are rushing to get a dog to shore, not to mention the 4 other walks each day, and trips the laundry or heads ( half way to shore).  But, it does give us the opportunity to meet other slip holders, admire their boats, and keep fit.

It only took a few days for us to decide to stay put for the winter. There is lots for us to do and explore here in the low country and we are just a days drive from our onshore home. Charleston also serves as the perfect starting point for our 2014 Great Loop Adventure.

There is always something going on here on the MegaDock.  As the snow birds and charter boats head south to Florida or the islands, the dock space near us fills up every night and clears out every morning, affording us an ever changing array of boats to look at and a beautiful view of the harbor all day long.  The first engines fire up as early as 5:30 AM, serving as an alarm clock for the me and the dogs.

Morning in the Marina-hood

There are many boats here for the long term too, and most of them have crews who are constantly busy cleaning something -- the hull, the water line, fenders, stainless steel fittings. Once they finish all that, they start again. It's exhausting to watch -- but their boats do look fabulous.  We're among the only "do it yourselfers" on our stretch of dock and the Cap'n has a long list of projects for us too. Unlike the paid crews, though, we take a lot of breaks.

So, here we are: settled in South Carolina for the winter.

Life in St. Petersburg

We've been docked in St. Petersburg for over a week now. In addition to the usual day to day onboard chores, we've had the chance to visit the Dali Museum, enjoy dinner at the St. Petersburg Yacht Club Pass-a-Grille clubhouse in St. Pete Beach; take a 10 mile (roundtrip) bike ride to visit our friend Bryant; re-connect with the Capn's former workmate Diana; watch the planes take off and land at the nearby Whittord Airport; take advantage of the student-provided stylist and spa services at the nearby Aveda Institute; and enjoy unbelievably spectacular days of blue skies and moderate temperatures. A girl could get used to this.

Tomorrow we head north to Tarpon Springs, the Sponge Capital of the World. Details to follow...

Miami Vice

The K'dults arrived Thursday for some Christmas Cruisin' in the Keys. We stayed at anchor just off the Venetian Causeway island of DiLido between Miami and Miami Beach. Just after dinner a commotion was noticed in one of the houses lining the harbor: Silhouettes of Police Officers with flashlights in hand were seen on the dock - intently searching the water and photographing trees. A few were on the second story deck.

A scramble for Freedom's three sets of binoculars ensued, we dimmed the salon and galley lights (but kept the Football game on) and headed to the cockpit. Questions were shot back and forth from mouths beneath the binos: "Is someone in the water?" "Wasn't there a construction crew there earlier? Maybe they stole something" "Could this be related to the road closing earlier that blocked all traffic coming and going to the island?" "Is that a gun?" "Can the cops see us?"

After a great deal of supposing at our end we noticed that the officers had left, and we returned to the football game,the dishes, the Internet, etc.

Within a few minutes, though, the house lights went on and a woman in skimpy black dress- or negligee - and a shirtless, well built man in shorts appeared, walking about, picking things up, putting them down, looking outside (oh no, are they looking at us looking at them?)Soon the woman reappeared in a red dress -- possibly a coverup for the black negligee. They were still pacing about as if they were searching for something. Finally, the man opened the sliding doors facing the water and they sat down to eat.

Once again we returned to what we had been doing, but the questions, conjecturing and supposing continued...

About midnight A. noticed a small boat with three men in black clothing nearing our stern. When they saw her they quickly squelched their light, and turned off the engine. As they drifted towards shore they pulsed a flashlight three times,as if sending a signal. She and C. followed their movements until a second boat appeared, also unlit and appearing to tow the first boat away - all in complete silence.
What was it all about? We'll never know - but we sure could have used Crockett and Tubbs...

*****Late breaking update: Intrepid Reporter and All Around Good Guy, our friend Jeff searched the internet and found mention of a burglary on Di Lido Island that very night. The homeowners discovered a break-in upon returning from work.Electronics, jewelry, and a bike were taken. Entry was made through the living room (waterside)door. It was the 5th such burglary in 2 months.Were the guys in the power boats involved? Or just fashionable men dressed in black returning from a night at the Miami Beach Clubs without enough gas to get home? Like I said, we'll never know.*****

Back Where She Came From

Here is Freedom anchored off the Coral Ridge Yacht Club in Fort Lauderdale - right where we found her about a year ago. After a fresh fish dinner on shore and a tour of Christmas Lights along the Waterway, we had a restful night before heading south to Miami.
Thank you to our friend and crewmate this week, Jeff, for snapping this photo. Aren't the clouds beautiful?

Tug Boats

We see a good deal of commercial traffic along the ICW -- and I really enjoy the Tug Boats -- the workhorses any waterway. Some are big, some are bigger, some bright and shiny, some with a little rust under her belt, but they all have a job to do.

I love the red tugs owned by McAllister -- always in spit-spot shape -- and sporting an "M"! Here is one tied up off Mobjack Bay:

We see a lot of dredging equipment along the ICW (without consistent dredging, the Waterway would be unpassable for all but the most shallow-drafted boat). The dredges work all night, while the pleasure boaters are at anchor or in marinas. Here are two tugs bringing along a dredge near great Bridge, VA. When you see one of these big rigs come by, you get out of the way - fast!

And here's a Tug tugging a Tug

The Tug Boat Captains are always friendly, giving us a hearty wave or calling us on the radio. They are a good source of local knowledge and in my opinion, have a cool job!

Greetings from Stuart, Florida

We pulled into our slip Loggerhead Marina, Stuart, Florida about 10:40AM yesterday (Saturday, 11/19/11). With 1,194 miles under her, Freedom will be taking a well deserved rest before a Christmas jaunt to the Keys.

We all relaxed yesterday afternoon, and the Captain caught up with an old friend late in the day while Kate and I took a walk. It felt good to stretch our legs after 4 days away from the dock. Shore about 1/4 mile from our slip, and the marina amenities are another quarter mile - no lack of exercise here!

Many of the boats we have passed along the Waterway are tied up here too, it has been fun to say hello and hear about everyone's future travel plans.

Typically, the day before a guest leaves we ask them to help us swab the decks. It's become a tradition, something we look forward to, and something we don't mention until we hand them a hose and a mop .... Kate was a good sport about helping the Captain this morning while I stayed inside to watch the Food Network, oops, I mean to clean the galley and vacuum.

Once I am back on land and using reliable Internet, I hope to upload many of the pictures from our southbound journey. Keep checking back......

Counting the Miles

Previous posts have included our mile posts along the ICW. But we have actually traveled further than those numbers indicate. Mile 0 of the Atlantic IntraCoastal Water is located at Norfolk, VA. Before arriving at Mile 0 we traveled approximately 180 miles from the Sassafras River.

Right now we are anchored at Mile 904.5 just south of Cocoa Beach (no sightings of Jeannie or Major Nelson yet). So, all in all we have 1,084.5 miles of water under Freedom, and about 90 more to go before we pull into our slip in Stuart on Saturday.

Hilton Head to Daytona, Miles 563 to 830

I had to end my Saturday update sooner than planned because of a sudden onset of ocean malaise. After a good rest on the settee, and a few gingersnaps ordered by crew member Dr. Bill I was up and about and able to enjoy our day off shore. (I love a Dr. who prescribes cookies, don't you?)

It really was a spectacularly beautiful day, and at the end we were treated to a remarkable sunset just as we anchored in Fernandina Harbor. It was a long but good day - we knew we weren't sailboating anymore when the football fans aboard were able to watch the PSU game while we motored 5 miles out!

Sunday was a day of rest, after the guys scrubbed the ocean salt off of Freedom and I got things back in ship shape order on the inside. Fernandina is a great stop -- a beautiful town to walk about, nice shops, friendy people on the docks. An International Bocce Ball Tournament going on while we were there. We never got to the tourney grounds, but we enjoyed the live music that went on all day and into the evening.

On Monday morning we said good-bye to Al and Bill and headed south to St. Augustine where we picked up this week's crew, my sister Kate. It took a while to get her onboard - the current required some extra work securing the mooring and the dinghy battery proved to be in need of a charge. Fortunately, the marina was able to give her a ride on their harbor boat.
Tuesday was another day off the Waterway, as we toured St. Augustine (I wouldn't recommend the Trolley Tour -- although it gave us a good overview of America's Oldest City, we also spent a lot of time turning around in parking lots.)

S.A. was founded in 1565 as a Spanish Military outpost. According to Dozier's Waterway Guide, it is "the oldest continuously occupied European settlement in the U.S." 19th Century Spanish Renaissance architecture is prevalent.
Henry Flagler, tycoon, real estate and railroad developer and a founder of Standard Oil (along with JD Rockefeller) contributed a great deal to the development of St. Augustine. His Ponce deLeon Hotel, built in 1888 is now home to Flagler College. The lush grounds and exquisite architecture create a college setting unlike any I have seen.
Our timing was a bit off and we missed the tours of Flagler College, and the chance to see one of the best collections of Tiffany Stained Glass in the country. A good reason to stop back in St.Augustine in the spring!

I had read that Columbia was considered to be one of the best Cuban restaurants in Florida, so that is where we headed for dinner. Delicioso!

Another highlight of our day in S.A. was meeting fellow CCAers and Selene owners Jack and Diane who are aboard Airlia. We look forward to seeing them again along the Waterway or at a Florida Station CCA event.

We headed out just before 6:30 AM today following a long line of boats in the early morning fog. Tonights anchorage is just south of Daytona Beach, near R 44 where we are enjoying the 80 degree temperatures and a good breeze. Might be a good night for Margarita's on the Calypso Deck!

Heading for the Rockpile - Mile 350ish

Tomorrow ( Wednesday) we will cross the Rock Pile -- an area near Myrtle Beach fraught with potential danger as we dodge submerged pieces of granite. With four sets of eyes and some good sense on board we should be fine. Wish us luck and stay tuned....

Hunkered Down at ICW Mile 141

We were up and away from the dock before 7AM yesterday (Thursday 11/3) amid a long line of boats heading south. The day dawned clear and cool, but as soon as we left the Coinjock canal we were enrobed in a thick fog with zero visibility past the bow. Knowing we were in the midst of such a long line of boats brought comfort and concern. Radio calls let us know who was where, but from time to time a boat would appear at our stern and just as quickly disappear into the fog ahead. Some boats were forging ahead at a questionable speed and others, like us, were cautiously moving forward just above idle. Once or twice a panicked call came across the radio warning a fellow mariner to make a hard turn to port or starboard, lest they run aground or hit another boat. It was a tense time. After a white knuckle hour a call came over the radio announcing: "All you boaters heading south in fog: once you reach mark 151 you will find a beautiful sunny day." In fact, the fog lifted for us a bit before #151 and we enjoyed a crystal clear skies, calm waters, and a gorgeous fall day. The line of boats heading out of Coinjock sorted out by speed with the faster boats disappearing in the distance, and Freedom overtaking most of the sailboats. We followed Duet across the Albemarle Sound, down the Alligator River, across the Alligator-Canal, and along the Pungo River until we decided to call it a day after over 10 hours on the water, and duck into our favorite creek just before the Pamlico Sound.

We were up and dressed before sunrise today, but with a check of the weather forecast for rain and gale winds over the next two days, and only 90 miles to travel until we pick up crew on Monday, we decided to stay put. As we wait for the skies to clear we'll be doing chores, reading, watching movies, checking the anchor, and enjoying the beauty of this isolated creek. A sailboat and another trawler are within sight, but in light of the weather forecast, I don't think there will be any visiting among the fleet.

On the Waterway

After 2 1/2 nauseating days bouncing down the Chesapeake Bay, we entered the IntraCoastal Waterway in Norfolk early afternoon today. The commercial traffic was heavy at times, but I was happy to be in calmer waters. The Captain and I handled the Great Bridge Lock with relative ease, and tonight we are tied up at Atlantic Yacht Basin awaiting a quick repair tomorrow morning before heading towards Coinjock and dinner ashore.

Back on the Bay

By 6:30 AM we had made the Great Bridge Bridge 6AM opening and successfully passed through the Great Bridge Lock in Virginia.
Here's a look at the "ruler" inside the lock indicating how far you will rise or fall -- we only fell 1 foot.

It was very anti-climatic. Not at all like the Erie Canal locks I rode through on a tour boat.

As you can see here, we traversed the lock at sunrise. The lightening skies and morning quiet really added to the experience. This was good,, since it was such a non-event. Christine and I were quite disappointed. But, props to the Captain and Andy for knowing how to tie the lines and make it all work.

Joining us in the Lock was the Captain and Crew of the Mary Kathryn whom we had met waiting out the storm in Charleston. We are now running up the Chesapeake Bay together, destination: Solomons Island for a night at anchor before heading to Annapolis tomorrow (Sunday).
Before entering the Bay we traveled through Norfolk Harbor, under the watchful eye of gunners and patrol boats protecting the naval fleet. At 8AM, Mid-way through the harbor, we cheered as we passed Mile 0 of the Atlantic IntraCoastal Waterway. Freedom has now explored over 1,000 miles of the ICW, from the party at the sand bar off of Key Biscayne to the industrial and military waterfront of Norfolk.
We are now in familiar waters, dodging crab pots and letting the autopilot steer our way north.

Over the River and Under the Bridges

We have been in some remote locations and internet service has been very spotty this week, preventing me from keeping up with the blog. Here is a recap of our week:

Mile 309 - 229
After Monday’s adventure through the rockpile, Tuesday brought us a series of bridges through northern South Carolina and southern North Carolina. Many bridges along the ICW are 65 feet or higher, but others are anywhere from 7 to 12 feet. Freedom needs 26’. Some bridges open on the hour every hour, some on the hour and the half hour, and some by request. Some of those are drawbridges and some are swing bridges. Before every bridge on Tuesday we asked the question: do we throttle up and go for it, or slow down, relax and wait for the next opening? It made for some exciting moments, particularly when the tender of a “once an hour opening” bridge told us we needed to “put a beat on it” and that we did, just slipping through at the last minute. Phew!

Meanwhile on Freedom, Christine organized my galley -- what a treat! I’ll write more about that later on our companion blog, FreedomFare Afloat.blogspot.com.

We spent Tuesday night at Casper's Marina in Swansboro, SC where we foolishly ignored advice to go to Cap’n Charlie’s Seafood Paradise Restaurant.

Mile 229 - 141
Wednesday’s trip was much more relaxing than Monday or Tuesday’s - but just as long, covering 88 miles. We bid farewell to our cruising companions Gene and Carol on September Rose as they turned into Oriental, NC, and we continued on up the Nuese River. The Nuese’s wide body reminded us all of the Chesapeake Bay - a welcome relief after the narrow and rocky waterways of the past few days.

Wednesday night we found a remote, pristine anchorage off near the mouth of the Pungo River. The meandering shores were lined with grasses as far as the eye could see. Some locals stopped by, out for their first ride of the season, to say hello and ask where we were coming from and where we were going. The first and last boat we saw all night.

Mile 141 - 104
Right now (Thursday evening)I am writing at anchor at Tuckahoe Point on the Alligator River. We stopped here just after noon upon hearing the swing bridge a few miles ahead had been closed due to high winds (gusts up to 30 mph). We can see at least a dozen other boats at anchor waiting out the weather. Although the bridge opened a few hours ago we decided to stay put for the night. The Albermarle Sound lays ahead, and it should only be crossed in the best conditions -- even in an ocean going vessel like Freedom. It turns out to be a gift from Mother Nature -- we have all enjoyed the chance to rest, read, and recharge for the final days of our trip. Scrabble Tournament after dinner.....

Rolling Down the Rivers

We have made great progress on our journey over the past few days - covering 90 miles on Monday and 80 miles yesterday(Tuesday). That might not sound like a lot, but on the ICW it is like working double overtime.

On Sunday night we stopped in Georgetown, SC -- a beautiful southern town with tree lined streets, graceful homes with porches, and a church on every corner (or so it seemed). Georgetown, founded in 1729, is South Carolina's third oldest city (after Charleston and Beaufort) but it is also the probable site of the first European settlement in North America in 1526. Unfortunately, Sunday is truly a day of rest in Georgetown and no shops or museums were open. We had hoped to visit the Rice Museum -- this was major rice growing area until the Civil War and several devastating hurricanes wiped out most of the industry. I look forward to returning to Georgetown to take a walking tour of the city, visit the Rice Museum, sample the Hog Maw at Aunny's Country Kitchen Restaurant, and enjoy the chocolate chip cookies (rumored to be the best on the ICW) at the Kudzu Bakery and Mercantile.

Christine and I had hoped to be able to stop in at the Kudzu Bakery at 9AM Monday morning but the Captain and the tide had other plans.So, we were off, following September Rose, another Selene from Annapolis, through the cypress swamps along the Waccama River. This was the most remote and beautiful stretch of the ICW I have encountered. For most of the day we had no cell or internet service. While doing my TRX in the cockpit, I spied several bald eagles in their nests - some tending to their young. Leaving the swamps we grasped the steering wheel and entered The Rock Pile. When the ICW was established a cut needed to be made at Pine Island, SC. Undeterred by the granite ledge they discovered, the Army Corps of Engineers simply detonated the rock, leaving the rocky debris along the shore. At first, the ICW was wide and deep, but over the years, shifting tides have moved the rocks closer and closer to the boat traffic. If you go through at low tide you can see some of these errant rock piles, but at high tide they are submerged requiring diligent attention to the depth sounder and remaining on the "Magenta Line" -- the color of the line on paper charts depicting the path of the ICW. One false move and you are heading in for repairs. After a long but scenic day, we settled into a slip in Southport , SC where we enjoyed dinner aboard and girls vs. boys round of Catch Phrase.
Just before bed we looked out the window to see a row of three tugs pulling a minimum of 5 connected barges carrying dredging equipment -- quite a sight in the dark,and a convoy we would not want to encounter during the day in the narrow and shallow passages of the ICW. A long, busy and varied day --and I still haven't told you about Tuesday!.
Here is what one of the barge dredging convoys looks like in daylight. We came to realize they stay put during the day to avoid pleasure craft, and travel the ICW at night when folks like us are safely at anchor or at a dock.

Freedom Fitness

As soon as we tie up at a Marina and tidy up a bit the first thing the Freedom crew wants to do is get on shore and stretch our legs! A good brisk walk always feels good. Our slip in Charleston was at least a quarter mile from shore affording us a good walk just to get to the showers. But, we don't go to shore everyday and on those days we have a few other options: exercise videos are convenient (but sometimes require more space for movement or equipment than we store on board); the stereo can provide good background music to established routines; and then there is our favorite: the TRX. Designed by a Navy Seal the TRX suspension training system utilizes nylon straps to create resistance from your body weight and gravity. It provides a terrific workout from the cockpit of the boat. There is nothing better than cruising along among the cypress or the marshlands while keeping up with our fitness routines. The view at the Y is much different!
(One thing I learned early on is that many yoga stretches, especially the one-legged variety, are not to be attempted underway.)

You're Home

Those were the words uttered by Mrs.Charlene Webb, of Beaufort, SC upon hearing the Captain was a descendant of the many Barnwell's and Elliotts buried there in St. Helena's churchyard. And then she said, "Why, we're related too -- I am also a descendant of the Barnwell's." An impromptu family reunion in the church hall.

The Captain has family roots deep in the low country. One of the first persons to be buried at St. Helena's was Col. John Barnwell, also known as "Tuscarora Jack"because of the wars he led against the Tuscarora Indians. He was born in Ireland in 1671 and died in South Carolina in June 1724.

Col. John's grandson, Robert Woodward Barnwell, also buried at St. Helena's, was a member of the South Carolina House of Representatives, later the US House of Representatives, and also the President of the University of South Carolina. In 1860 he was a candidate for the Presidency of the Confederacy.
On the Elliott side, Brig. Gen. Stephen Elliott, JR CSA was best known for this defense of Fort Sumter, "converting its ruins into an impregnable fortress. After the War of Northern Aggression he was re-elected to the SC State Legislature, but weakened by wounds and exposure, he died a few months later in February 1866. Another notable Elliott found buried at St. Helena's was William Elliott II was a veteran of the American Revolution, wounded in the Battle of St. John's Island. After the war he developed plantations on Parris Island and Hilton Head, and he was the first to plant Sea Island Cotton in South Carolina. Born in 1761, he died in May 1808.

Here are some other images from St. Helena's and Beaufort, SC:

As you can tell, We had a fascinating day wandering about Beaufort, and taking a guided carriage ride. We then motored to Dataw (aka Datha) Island where we were greeted by Jim Gourd, a fellow CCA member, and enjoyed a fun dinner with Jim and his wife Babs.
This morning we are headed towards Charleston -- a two day trip.

Looking to the Sky

A Message from the Captain this morning (April 1st)

Yesterday - March 31st - around 15:00 we were whacked by thunderstorms and heavy winds. NOAA issued waterspout warnings but we did not see any. Stead 30 with gusts to 45 and lots of lightning. Glad to have a heavy boat with a full keel. Being inside was very civilized. The only foredeck work was dropping the anchor. A second squall line came through around 18:00 then lots of lightning and thunder all night.

Looks like a nice day and should have the current with us at least all morning.

This afternoon while passing Cape Canaveral theFreedom crew saw the last Shuttle on its pad. Too far away for a picture, but not for a farewell to another era in the the US Space Program.