We have spent the past week traveling under a Carolina Blue sky from the low country of South Carolina, through the marshlands of northern South Carolina, and past North Carolina's Outer Banks. As I write we are anchored about 30 miles south of the NC/VA border, once again surrounded by marshlands and no signs of civilization.
Fair weather, low winds and flat seas allowed us to traverse the Neuse River, the Pamlico River, and the Albemarle Sound with ease. Last fall we waited three days for a weather window to cross the Albemarle, so this was a great relief.
Our goal for this trip north has been to visit favorite stops, and explore new ones. With a few extra travel days at our disposal we decided to try the Dismal Swamp Canal route between Elizabeth City, NC and Norfolk, VA, instead of the more heavily traveled Virginia Cut/Coinjock-Norfolk route. Although we were a bit concerned about running aground (the 'controlling depth' is 6 feet, meaning the water is no lower than 6' at any point) we decided to forge ahead anyway.
The Great Dismal Swamp is known for its abundance of wildlife and relative lack of human habitation. The name alone enticed us.
In 1763 George Washington suggested draining the swamp, harvesting the the cypress for shipbuilding and the cedar for shingles. and the cleared land could be used for farming. Washington eventually sold his interest in the land to "Lighthouse" Harry Lee, father of Robert E. Lee. Timber continued to be harvested until the 1950's when the last tree was cut down. After the Union Camp Company donated its holdings in 1973 the area was designated as the Great Dismal Swamp National Wildlife Refuge.
Edgar Allen Poe is said to have written 'The Raven" in a hotel at the NC/VA border of the swamp, and Edna Ferber crafted "ShowBoat" after seeing Jane Adams' Floating Theatre along the waterway.
So, off we went this morning, destination: The Great Dismal Swamp. Just after we veered off of the well traveled Virginia Cut route along the Albermarle Sound we caught a conversation on Channel 16:
A boater in Elizabeth City was alerting another captain that the Elizabeth City bridge, height 12' was inoperable, and repairs were being measured in days not hours. I called the bridge tender to confirm.He seemed optimistic that repairs would be completed by days end, but he was not sure what needed to be done. Hmmmm. There is no way Freedom could get under the bridge without an opening, and we were taking a bit of a chance with the controlling depth, as we draw 5'10", and our fuel tanks are full which may make us sit a bit lower.
Sadly, we reset our course, leaving the Dismal Swamp behind. Maybe next time.......
The Great Dismal Swamp was the lure of many men seeking fortune from the vast land and abundant natural supply of valuable lumber. One of the first and most famous business supporters of the Great Dismal Swamp was George Washington himself. It was his suggestion to build the actual Canal which was begun in 1793. There is now a system of Canals and Ditches including a feeder ditch from Lake Drummond (approximate center of the swamp) which keeps the system supplied with water. The Dismal Swamp Canal's first vessel was a shingle flat which christened the canal with the first voyage in 1805. The steamship Thomas Newton was one of many steam vessels to carry freight and passengers through the Great Dismal Swamp. At one time the swamp was fully commercialized and included a number of Railroads to move the valuable timber to Norfolk and Suffolk and points South. The historic canal is now recognized as part of the National Underground Railroad and noted as a former sanctuary for runaway slaves seeking freedom.he Great Dismal Swamp was the lure of many men seeking fortune from the vast land and abundant natural supply of valuable lumber. One of the first and most famous business supporters of the Great Dismal Swamp was George Washington himself. It was his suggestion to build the actual Canal which was begun in 1793. There is now a system of Canals and Ditches including a feeder ditch from Lake Drummond (approximate center of the swamp) which keeps the system supplied with water. The Dismal Swamp Canal's first vessel was a shingle flat which christened the canal with the first voyage in 1805. The steamship Thomas Newton was one of many steam vessels to carry freight and passengers through the Great Dismal Swamp. At one time the swamp was fully commercialized and included a number of Railroads to move the valuable timber to Norfolk and Suffolk and points South. The historic canal is now recognized as part of the National Underground Railroad and noted as a former sanctuary for runaway slaves seeking freedom.The Great Dismal Swamp was the lure of many men seeking fortune from the vast land and abundant natural supply of valuable lumber. One of the first and most famous business supporters of the Great Dismal Swamp was George Washington himself. It was his suggestion to build the actual Canal which was begun in 1793. There is now a system of Canals and Ditches including a feeder ditch from Lake Drummond (approximate center of the swamp) which keeps the system supplied with water. The Dismal Swamp Canal's first vessel was a shingle flat which christened the canal with the first voyage in 1805. The steamship Thomas Newton was one of many steam vessels to carry freight and passengers through the Great Dismal Swamp. At one time the swamp was fully commercialized and included a number of Railroads to move the valuable timber to Norfolk and Suffolk and points South. The historic canal is now recognized as part of the National Underground Railroad and noted as a former sanctuary for runaway slaves seeking freedom.
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